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TrainingBeta Blog2024-08-06T13:47:12-06:00

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Evening Sends – Will Protein Supplements Make Me Too Bulky to Climb?

As climbers, we all want to get stronger, but we also want to stay light and lean. Attempting to balance these desires has made climbers look at main-stream exercises supplements, like protein shakes, with some serious suspicion. Climbers often feel that consuming protein supplements will cause weight gain through "bulking [...]

December 17th, 2017|

Climb Strong: Recovery Training

Most climbers know that climbing or training every day is a quick way to end up burned out and injured. Our bodies need rest to recover from training sessions and days out climbing. However, calling days away from climbing and training "rest days" implies that they are passive and we need [...]

December 15th, 2017|

Preparing to Try Hard Part 1: Isometric Testing and P.A.P. for Coaches

Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more. With training, we take certain things [...]

December 11th, 2017|

Climbing Magazine: 7 Stretches for Climbing Road Trips

If you're a dedicated climber, then you've almost definitely driven long distances to climb.  While road trips are exciting and super fun, long periods in the car can leave you feeling stiff, sore, and ready for a rest day.  But, come on!  Who want's to start their climbing trip with [...]

December 8th, 2017|

Bouldering Training: Free Strength Training Workout

Bouldering, like all climbing, requires really strong fingers.  Any training program that doesn't have a central finger strength component is missing the mark.  Additionally, the time you spend training finger strength is a great time to fit in a full-body strength training workout.  Combining the two makes for a highly efficient [...]

December 6th, 2017|

Dave MacLeod: Edge Hangboard and How-To Hangboard Video

Now I know what you're thinking, another article on hangboarding?  We all know finger strength is important and hangboarding is the best way to train it - so haven't we pretty much covered it? Well, those are fair questions.  Unfortunately, while hangboarding has become more and more popular, lots of climbers [...]

December 5th, 2017|

Climbing Magazine: Adam Ondra and Using Visualization

When we hear about Adam Ondra establishing Silence (the world's first 9c/5.15d route), it's easy to say, "Wow, he sent because of how hard he trained." Obviously, Adam Ondra trains incredibly hard and no one can climb 5.15 without being strong. However, establishing routes on the cutting edge of the sport requires [...]

December 3rd, 2017|

Climb Strong: Advances in Core Training

We all know that having a strong core is important for climbing.  However, with all the core exercises out there, it can be hard to tell exactly what's going to be the most effective core training for climbing. To provide some clarity to the world of core training, here's an article [...]

December 1st, 2017|

Top 5 Strength Training Articles

Strength is the basis of hard rock climbing.  If you aren't strong enough for a climb, no amount of endurance is going to get you to the chains. Now, when it comes to rock climbing, we all know that finger strength is important.  However, strength training for climbing should involve [...]

November 29th, 2017|

EpicTV – Mastermind Mental Training Videos

Most of the time when we talk about training for climbing we are talking about improving our physical abilities.  However, when it comes to actually putting forth a good climbing performance whether outside on your project or in a competition, it's not just about physical strength, but about our mental [...]

November 27th, 2017|
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