How to Feel Less Resentful about Being a Short Climber
I'll just come out and say it: being a short climber can be very frustrating. As a 5'0" climber with a negative 1" ape index, I regularly watch people skip through my crux moves and easily reach holds that are full lock-offs for me. Witnessing this kind of thing can [...]
Reexamining Major Jumps in Climbing Performance: Success Leaves Tracks
My winter hasn’t exactly gone according to plan. I went down to Hueco in early January to escape the depths of Wyoming winter and get a strength and power dose on some of my favorite boulders on the planet. Initially, I felt strong and with a month-long stay planned, I [...]
What to Invest in for Climbing Training: Matt Pincus
Recently, I wrote to the TrainingBeta email subscribers about how I was changing up my training for the winter and how switching back to bouldering for a bit during the late fall had reinvigorated my psyche after a disappointing fall sport climbing season. I wrote that piece while I was [...]
How to Sleep Better So You Can Climb Better
In my nutrition sessions with climbers, I ask a lot of very personal questions: when do you eat, when do you poop every day, DO you poop every day, how much do you sleep? Through all of this questioning, I've discovered that most people I work with have trouble sleeping [...]
3 Ways to Stay Sane When You’re Injured and Can’t Climb
Most climbers get injured at some point, and most climbers go through some mental and emotional turmoil when that happens. We lament the fact that we somehow did this to ourselves and that our bodies aren't strong enough to withstand difficult things. Then we wonder what in the WORLD we're [...]
Questions to Ask Yourself if You’re Burnt Out on Climbing and Life
When I was in my 20's, a woman in her 50's said to me, "The best part about menopause is that you stop giving a crap what other people think of you. I finally feel free to do what I want and be who I am." I was so envious... [...]
How to Get Your Joy Back in Climbing by Neely Quinn, CPC
I've been hearing from a lot of climbers lately that they're not happy with their climbing. They've lost the joy they used to experience when they first started and they don't know how to get it back. They think they "should" be climbing harder grades, with less fear, and more [...]
The Key Thing That’s Been Missing from My Training All Along
I was talking with Alex Stiger about my climbing goals and training plans this year and she said something that keeps echoing in my mind that I wanted to share with you: "When you train, you kind of go crazy with it and do all the things, and then by [...]
What Matt is Changing in His Climbing & Training after a Disappointing Season
Every month or so we do a life and climbing update on Matt, Alex or me, and this month is Matt's turn! Read on to see what he's been up to and what he's learned about his climbing. Enter Coach Matt Pincus... Changing Things Up My fall sport climbing season [...]
How to Deal with Pre-Send or Mid-Send Nerves
Earlier this summer I was at this route I'd been trying for a few days - a 13a (7c+) called Uncle Dad in the Flatirons in Boulder. I knew I was close to sending, but I was just really uncomfortable, physically and emotionally. My heartrate was faster than normal, I [...]