Conquer the Crux – 5 Steps to Establishing a Home Yoga Practice
The benefits of yoga for athletic performance are well established. However, with your time and money already at a premium, committing to consistently going to yoga classes can feel completely unrealistic. Luckily, you can enjoy all the athletic benefits of yoga from the comfort of our own homes without ever going to [...]
Nicholas Kuhl – Returning to Climbing After a Traumatic Back Injury
We talk a lot about how most climbing injuries are preventable. While this statement is definitely true, it pertains mostly to overuse injuries and doesn't account for the fact that climbing has some inherent dangers. Injuries that are the result of climbing accidents happen and can be very serious. Depending [...]
Lattice Training: Core Training Video
The fact that core strength is important for climbing performance is no secret. A strong core allows us to create body tension and lets us transfer weight to our feet when climbing on overhanging terrain. Core training should be a staple of any successful training program. However, effectively training core strength [...]
The Climbing Doctor: Pulley Injuries Explained Part II
Pulley injuries happen. It's unfortunate, but somewhat unavoidable if you climb for long enough. Not too long ago we shared an article from Dr. Jared Vagys website, The Climbing Doctor, by Doctor of Physical Therapy Matt DeStefano. In this first article, DeStefano went into depth on finger anatomy and the [...]
Lattice Training: Body Positioning on Rings and TRX
The Olympic Rings and TRX are very valuable training tools. They can be used to train climbing specific strength, especially core strength and shoulder stability. They can also be used effectively as part of an injury prevention program to train antagonist strength. However, as with all training exercises, it's not [...]
The Project Magazine: 56° Underground with Ned Feehally
When it comes to training for climbing, it's hard to be more dedicated and maniacal than the British. Whether you trace it back to Jerry Moffatt and Ben Moon or look at current day climbers, the fact is Brits have a unique training culture. It doesn't have to be flashy. It's just [...]
Comparing Hangboard Protocols
Hangboards are the best way to train finger strength. When used properly, they are extremely safe and let us fine tune the intensity of our workouts. However, for climbers new to training on a fingerboard, the details of different hangboard protocols can feel overwhelming. Luckily, the minutia of the number of [...]
Top 5 TrainingBeta Blog Posts of 2017
Well, 2017 is almost in the books. We hope your year has been full of lots of time climbing with good friends and, of course, lots of sending! To wrap up 2017, here are the top 5 TrainingBeta Blog Post of the year. The articles cover everything from hangboarding and [...]
Transcript Highlight: Dr. Jared Vagy on Muscle Activation Exercises
While we have definitely learned a lot about how to effectively train for climbing, from a sports science perspective, climbing is still far behind lots of other mainstream sports. We can't catch up overnight (research takes time!), but one of the best things we can do is borrow from other [...]
How to Train Power without a Campus Board
One of the most common questions we get here at TrainingBeta is what people should substitute into their training when they don't have access to a campus board. Before we talk about what other types of training can take the place of campusing, it's important that we spell out exactly what [...]