Eric Hörst: 4 Pull-Up Variations
There's a lot more that goes into climbing well than simply our ability to pull with our upper body. That being said, climbing does have upper body strength requirements. As a result, we should practice climbing technique, but in our training, we should include exercises that target upper body pulling. Ultimately, [...]
Transcript Highlight: Paige Claassen on Learning to Try Hard
Paige Claassen just sent the historic Necessary Evil 5.14c in the VRG. She had tried this route in the past, trained specifically for it, and then stuck it out at the crag to come away with a send. Congrats Paige! I (Matt Pincus) was there for many of her attempts [...]
Training with an Injury
In the last two years, I've broken my leg and had to take 3-months off climbing due to a finger injury. Currently, I feel like the thing I'm best at is getting back into good climbing form after injuries. However, my recent injuries and training to get back to my [...]
Climb Strong: Developing General Grip Strength
More and more climbers are learning about the benefits of general strength training. That's why you see climbers deadlifting, squatting, and swinging kettlebells. These climbers are doing it right. Training general strength helps climbers become more well-rounded, durable athletes. However, when it comes to developing grip and finger strength, we all [...]
Route Climbing Training: Cross Training and Mobility Workout
An unfortunate reality in climbing is that we are often limited by our skin. However, just because our skin is worn out and our fingers have had enough doesn't mean we can't still do some quality training. In fact, there is lots of beneficial training you can do without ever [...]
Rock and Ice: Improve Your Pinch Strength
When it comes to improving overall finger strength, hangboards are the gold standard. However, hangboard training works most effectively when training for edge, pocket, and crimp holds. They are, however, not as effective for improving pinch strength. The main reason for this is that pinches on hangboards allow you to [...]
Climbing Nutrition: Food and Diet Attitudes
Sure, being light and lean is good for climbing performance. However, as climbers, we are athletes and, as athletes, we shouldn't just be looking for a quick way to shed a couple pounds. Instead, we should be looking to optimize our diets so that they fully fuel our training and [...]
Climbing Magazine: Jonathan Siegrist on Improving Your Climbing
Since you've made your way to TrainingBeta, it's a pretty safe bet you want to improve your climbing. You probably want to climb higher and higher grades and are looking for information about how training can help you make that happen. While you've definitely come to the right place for [...]
Eric Hörst: Learn From Watching Margo Hayes Send Biographie
Climbing 5.15 isn't something most of us are going to achieve. However, watching videos of top climbers, like Margo Hayes, send their projects is beneficial beyond simply being entertaining. That is as long as you watch the videos critically and analyze the climber's movement, pacing, climbing style, ect. To highlight [...]
Evening Sends – Becoming a Better Climber in 2018
Technically it'still January. That means it's still New Year's resolution season. While goal setting is an important part of progressing as a climber, becoming a better climber isn't always about climbing the next hardest grade. Redefining our goals can change how we measure success, increase our enjoyment of the sport, [...]