Transcript Highlight: Joshua Rucci on Resting
Most of us want to climb all the time. While there's obviously nothing wrong with loving climbing, we can't do it every day. Resting is important. Whether we are on a trip or simply motivated to train, we tend to think of rest days as something we have to get [...]
Climbing Nutrition – Intermittent Fasting
If you've made your way to TrainingBeta, then chances are you're looking to improve your climbing performance. As climbers, we can be pretty maniacal in our pursuit of higher and higher grades. For many of us, manipulating our diet in an effort to either lose weight or improve athletic performance is [...]
Adam Ondra Silence Video and Performance Analysis
This past September, Adam Ondra established the world's first 5.15d/9c when he climbed Silence in Flatanger, Norway. Establishing the hardest route in the world is newsworthy simply because of the difficulty. However, it's even more valuable for us to look at Adam's accomplishment from the perspective of learning about how [...]
Top 5 Fear of Falling Articles
The fear of falling is probably the single thing that holds more climbers back than anything else - more than finger strength and more than poor technique. When people first start climbing, their fear of falling can be overwhelming. This can be when they are above a bolt, a piece [...]
Rock and Ice – Heel Hook Exercises
When used properly, a heel hook is a great technique for using your legs to take some weight off your hands. Solid heel hooks can make even the worst hand holds usable as they can take the majority of your weight. However, for heel hooks to work properly, you can't just [...]
Evening Sends: How Paige Claassen Sent Her Proj With Only 1 Hour Per Day
As I've sure you've seen by now, Paige Claassen recently sent Necessary Evil 5.14c. When Chris Sharma first established Necessary Evil in 1997, it was the hardest route in the country. In the 21 years since the first ascent, Necessary Evil has only seen 16 other ascents and didn't see a [...]
Climbing Training Seminar with Steve Bechtel, Neely Quinn, etc
If you take your climbing training seriously (or your clients') and you feel like you just can't get enough information about it by reading and watching videos, then it might be time for you to invest in more hands-on learning. I'm going to let Steve Bechtel of ClimbStrong.com take over [...]
Climbing Nutrition: The Rules of Losing Weight
In his ongoing series on weight loss, Brian Rigby of Climbing Nutrition has been exploring the topic from a variety of different viewpoints. His aim is to take the complicated world of nutrition and distill it down to what is actually important for climbers trying to lose weight. Today, we [...]
Eric Hörst: 4 Pull-Up Variations
There's a lot more that goes into climbing well than simply our ability to pull with our upper body. That being said, climbing does have upper body strength requirements. As a result, we should practice climbing technique, but in our training, we should include exercises that target upper body pulling. Ultimately, [...]
Transcript Highlight: Paige Claassen on Learning to Try Hard
Paige Claassen just sent the historic Necessary Evil 5.14c in the VRG. She had tried this route in the past, trained specifically for it, and then stuck it out at the crag to come away with a send. Congrats Paige! I (Matt Pincus) was there for many of her attempts [...]