Moon Climbing: 6 Shoulder Stability Exercises
Because of the increase in shoulder injuries, climbers are really concerned with shoulder injury prevention. To give you some ideas about how to incorporate shoulder stability work into your training, here's an article from Moon Climbing where British climber Olivia Ratcliffe outlines six shoulder stability exercises. While the concern about [...]
Matt Pincus: Training While Trying to Send
You've trained hard for months, you're feeling strong, and conditions are prime on your project. It's time to send! But wait?!?!?!?!?! You've got a job and commitments outside of climbing. This means you can only get to your project on the weekend. What do you do with the rest of [...]
Rock and Ice: Michaela Kiersch on Setting Goals
It's easy to look at the big accomplishments of the climbing elite and think that these sends just happened because of how strong and talented these athletes are. However, this view not only glosses over all the hard work these climbers put in, but it also completely skips the first and [...]
Matt Pincus: Principles of Core Training
You've been in the gym for hours. Your fingers are stiff. Your skin hurts. Despite all of this you want to do more. After all, you want to get stronger and training is supposed to be hard. So what do you do? You head to the gym's training area and think, [...]
The Climbing Doctor: Shoulder Injuries – The SLAP Tear
Climbing injury rates are on the rise. If you climb long enough, chances are you're going to deal with an injury at some point. However, this doesn't mean we should just be sitting back waiting for injuries to happen. Most climbing injuries are the result of overuse. This means that [...]
Beta Angel – A New Resource for Climbing Research
As climbing and training become more and more popular, we are learning more and more about what actually works. Think back a couple years ago. We hadn't even reached a consensus on whether or not hangboarding was an effective way to increase finger strength. Today, if you talk to anyone [...]
Cafe Kraft: Lower Body Mobility Drills
As climbers, we tend to focus most of our training on our upper bodies. I'm talking about finger strength, pulling power, the strength endurance of the forearm, ect. While these are all important for climbing performance, training programs shouldn't neglect the lower body. Sure, we all know that we need [...]
Transcript Highlight: Roanne Van Voorst on Positivity
Over the past couple of weeks, I (Matt Pincus) have been sharing excerpts from Neely's conversation with Dutch climber and researcher Roane Van Voorst. So far we've looked at how Lynn Hill deals with fear and how Hazel Findlay practices dealing with fear on an ongoing basis. I'm sharing these excerpts [...]
Cafe Kraft: Upper Body Mobility Drills
Climbing and training place serious physical demands on our upper body. These demands result in continual wear and tear on joints like shoulders and elbows. One only has to look at the ever-increasing number of shoulder injuries in climbers to see this situation needs to be taken seriously. Ultimately, the best [...]
Tension Climbing – Foundations
It doesn't take long on the internet to find loads of new climbing training exercises. Quite often, exercises are even presented as some kind of shortcut to climbing improvement. Combine this abundance of information with the fact that our scientific understanding of the foundations of climbing training and performance is [...]