Remy Franklin: A Better Way to Set Your New Year’s Climbing Goals
Yes, it’s that time of year again. The last days of December roll around, everyone flocks to El Potrero Chico, and when January hits you take stock of your life and join the roughly half of Americans who set a New Year’s resolution. The problem is, New Year’s resolutions don’t [...]
The Climbing Doctor: Finger Pulley Strains
Climbing is hard on our fingers. No matter how careful you are or how diligently you train your fingers, finger tweaks can happen. Finger pulley strains are by far the most common of these, but that doesn't mean we just have to sit back and let them happen. Luckily, to [...]
Mina Leslie-Wujastyk: Cellar Training Culture in the UK
In most cities around the US, modern climbing gyms are opening left and right. These gyms boast tens of thousands of square feet of climbing terrain, training areas, weight rooms, yoga studios, and are even clean and well-lit. Essentially, they seem to have everything you could possibly need to improve [...]
Paige Claassen: How I Trained for Algorithm 5.14d
Paige Claassen is a badass. Period. Having now climbed up to 5.14d/9a sport routes, what can the rest of us really learn from Paige and how she trained to climb her first 5.14d, Algorithm? The answer is A LOT. Today in the next installment of the "How I Trained For" [...]
Sam Elias: Level Up Your Mental Game – 6 Books
It's easy to say a lot of climbing is mental. However, improving your mental game isn't as easy or straightforward. Just like training your fingers or improving your technique, improving your mental game takes deliberate and consistent hard work. What follows is a review of 6 books that professional climber [...]
Alex Stiger: How I Trained for Tomb Raider 5.13d
ANNOUNCEMENT Coach Alex Stiger is now offering 3 workshops for $75 until December 26th! Learn how to use the TRX, gymnastics rings, and the hangboard to improve your climbing performance in these 90-minute workshops that include 3 months of access to 3 Teachable courses with video tutorials, exercises, and [...]
Quantifying Isometrics Part 2: Program Auto-Regulation and Its Implications on Finger Training
A few months back, Dr. Tyler Nelson, a sports scientist and climber who owns a chiropractic sports medicine clinic and strength and conditioning business in Salt Lake City, wrote an article that covered the use of isometrics in training for climbing. This first article, Preparing to Try Hard Part I: Isometric [...]
Brian Suntay: How I Trained for a Successful Sport Climbing Season
Training programs may look great on paper, but people seldom follow them exactly. Instead, their training changes to reflect their schedule, goals, and life commitments. That's why we're starting a series here at TrainingBeta where real climbers share how they actually trained, why they did what they did, and what kind [...]
Performance Climbing Coach Seminar with Steve Bechtel, Neely Quinn, etc
If you take your climbing training seriously (or your clients') and you feel like you just can't get enough information about it by reading and watching videos, then it might be time for you to invest in more hands-on learning. Steve Bechtel created the Performance Climbing Coach Seminar, a 2-day [...]
Climb Strong: Foundation Strength
We all know that getting stronger is an important part of improving climbing performance. However, many periodized programs give us the idea that we should only work on strength during certain blocks of our training. According to Steve Bechtel of Climb Strong, this isn't the best approach. Instead, he advocates [...]