Transcript Highlight: The Access Fund on How We Can All Protect Our Climbing Areas
The spring and summer climbing season is upon us! This means it's time for long days, road trips, camping, and generally getting outside to enjoy the wild places we love. With that said, all of us here at TrainingBeta thought this would be a good time to issue a friendly [...]
Dr. Tyler Nelson: Finger Training with Blood Flow Restriction
Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more. Training effectively always requires walking the [...]
Transcript Highlight: Steve Bechtel on New Endurance Training Methods
You're above your bolt gunning for the chains on your project. But wait! Your forearms are getting pumped, your elbows start to chicken wing, you start to panic, and before you know it your hanging from the end of your rope. No send this time. We all know the feeling, [...]
Marina Inoue: How I Trained for Dark Age V11
With training, it's easy to think that more is always the answer - more exercises, more sessions, and more training tools. The reality though is that just "more" is seldom the way forward. Well thought-out training plans don't necessarily require complex periodization schemes or months away from outdoor climbing. Instead, they [...]
Transcript Highlight: Dr. Jared Vagy on The Frequency of Injury Prevention Exercises
Injuries suck. Not only do they prevent us from climbing in the short term, but they de-rail long term progress by forcing us to spend seasons on the couch rather than at the crag becoming better and stronger climbers. It's no surprise then that if you look anywhere within the [...]
Brannon Frank: Max Isometrics and Their Application for Youth Coaches
The use of isometrics in climbing training is growing. While they've been common practice in finger strength training for a long time (think hangboarding), the use of max isometrics in a variety of strength training modalities is becoming more diverse and widespread. While they might seem like they are only [...]
Kuba Lacina Video: 20-Minute Overall Fitness Workout
Kuba Lacina made an entertaining video showing you how to do the 20-minute overall fitness workout that Kris Peters outlined in our podcast about how to train overall fitness for rock climbing. In the interview, Kris says, "We need to be ok with suffering, feeling terrible, and being able to [...]
Danny Robertson: How I Train for Limit Sport Climbs
Projecting limit sport climbs is a process. It's a process with lots of pitfalls along the way. Many climbers sabotage themselves both on the route and in their preparation beforehand, but ultimately, there's an art to projecting. We've done our best to outline the process before, but there's no substitute for going [...]
Transcript Highlight: Lattice Training on the Perfect 1-Hour Session
Climbing training takes time. Unfortunately, most of us have schedules that are anything but full of extra time we can devote to our training. However, being low on time doesn't mean you can't have quality training sessions and progress your climbing. There are no shortcuts, but if you are smart [...]
Brianna Greene: How I Trained for My First 5.12
Climbing our first 5.12 is a big deal to a lot of us. At that level, it's easy to get sucked into believing that sessions on the hangboard, bouldering for power, and lifting weights will get you past that 5.11 barrier. But the truth is there's a lot more to [...]