Blog Posts about Injuries
Avoiding Injuries on Pockets – The Climbing Doctor
For many climbers, even looking at a photo of a small two-finger pocket or a mono makes their fingers hurt. It's also true that pockets put a lot of strain on our tendons and the other connective structures in our [...]
Natasha Barnes – Hamstring Injuries in Climbers
When we think of climbing injuries, most of us jump right to finger, elbow, and shoulder injuries. While injuries to these areas are definitely common, they are all upper body injuries. Last time I checked, we also use our lower [...]
Pulley Injuries Explained – The Climbing Doctor
Like it or not, climbing puts a lot of stress on our fingers. Do it for long enough and chances are you will experience some kind of finger injury. While finger injuries can range from severe tendon ruptures to minor [...]
How Shoulder Mobility Affects Your Climbing
Shoulders, shoulders, shoulders... More and more climbers are dealing with chronic shoulder pain. This isn't something we should be looking to simply grit our teeth and climb through. That's a quick way to end up on the couch recovering from [...]
Neil Gresham: Coming Back From Injury
Ultimately, injury rehabilitation is a complicated topic and anything other than minor tweaks it is definitely worth seeking the advice of a medical expert. However, to give you some general advice, here's an article from Rock and Ice by British [...]
Rest Days by Liz Haas
Today, we've got an article about most climbers' least favorite topic: rest days. Listen, we get it. Climbing is a lot more fun than not climbing. However, EVERYONE needs rest. Additionally, while rest days are important for all climbers, they are [...]
The Climbing Doctor: Thoracic Mobility for Climbers
Mobility is the new buzzword in injury prevention and rehab. While mobility work certainly isn't new, climbers are starting to realize that actively working on and improving our mobility is essential for pain free climbing. You can work on mobility [...]
Esther Smith: New Grassroots Self Treatment Videos
If you follow the TrainingBeta Podcast, then you are no doubt familiar with physical therapist Esther Smith. She is an incredibility talented physical therapist who works primarily with climbers and is a 5.13 climber herself. Obviously, for climbers, with our [...]
Natasha Barnes – Ankle Sprains
So, you're on a bouldering trip. You're trying to send your project and you jump for the last hold only to miss and come crashing into the pads. Only this time instead of shouting in frustration and then resting up for [...]
Evening Sends: Climbing Mobility with Kelly Starrett
With all the talk in the training community about injury prevention, it can seem like overuse injuries are the inevitable outcome of hard climbing and training. However, this attitude is missing the most important part of injury prevention and that's [...]