Blog Posts about Injuries
The Climbing Doctor: Finger Pulley Strains
Climbing is hard on our fingers. No matter how careful you are or how diligently you train your fingers, finger tweaks can happen. Finger pulley strains are by far the most common of these, but that doesn't mean we just [...]
Moon Climbing: 6 Shoulder Stability Exercises
Because of the increase in shoulder injuries, climbers are really concerned with shoulder injury prevention. To give you some ideas about how to incorporate shoulder stability work into your training, here's an article from Moon Climbing where British climber Olivia [...]
The Climbing Doctor: Shoulder Injuries – The SLAP Tear
Climbing injury rates are on the rise. If you climb long enough, chances are you're going to deal with an injury at some point. However, this doesn't mean we should just be sitting back waiting for injuries to happen. Most [...]
Cafe Kraft: Lower Body Mobility Drills
As climbers, we tend to focus most of our training on our upper bodies. I'm talking about finger strength, pulling power, the strength endurance of the forearm, ect. While these are all important for climbing performance, training programs shouldn't neglect [...]
Cafe Kraft: Upper Body Mobility Drills
Climbing and training place serious physical demands on our upper body. These demands result in continual wear and tear on joints like shoulders and elbows. One only has to look at the ever-increasing number of shoulder injuries in climbers to see [...]
The Climbing Doctor: Low Back Pain and Climbing
Low back pain can be extremely debilitating and affects a large portion of the population. While low back pain is extremely common in the entire population, it also affects climbers as many of our repetitive movement patterns can quickly lead to [...]
Climbing Magazine: Prevent and Correct Muscle Imbalances
We all know that climbing helps us get strong over time. It would be nice to think that strength develops evenly. However, due to old injuries, incorrect form when training, uneven movement patterns, and the nature of our sport, we [...]
Natasha Barnes: Stress/Recovery/Adaptation Cycle and Climbing
Overuse injuries are a common problem in climbers. We all want to get stronger, climb every day, reach our goals, and continue progressing through the grades. However, the problem is for most of us our psyche and desire to climb [...]
Rock and Ice – Heel Hook Exercises
When used properly, a heel hook is a great technique for using your legs to take some weight off your hands. Solid heel hooks can make even the worst hand holds usable as they can take the majority of your [...]
Training with an Injury
In the last two years, I've broken my leg and had to take 3-months off climbing due to a finger injury. Currently, I feel like the thing I'm best at is getting back into good climbing form after injuries. However, [...]