Alex here, and today I am going to share a new concept I’ve been using that has been super helpful for me while getting on new climbs outside, choosing projects, and just deciding what to spend time on in the gym.
I have been calling this concept “Buying In.“
My goal is that this concept will help you feel more accomplished whether you send or don’t send.
And also help you feel way less stressed about getting on certain climbs that might intimidate you. Buying In is a negotiation I want you to make with yourself for a particular climb.
The idea is quite simple: You commit to a certain number of attempts. You get to write your conditions. And then you don’t think about whether or not you should get on something else, stop getting on it, etc., until after your buy-in attempts have been completed.
After you complete the number of attempts you bought in for, you get to buy in for more attempts or leave it behind knowing you accomplished something important for your climbing progression!
Here are two examples of some recent buy-ins I’ve made for myself:
Buy-In Example #1: Magnetar – 5.13d in Rifle
Buy in number: 10 attempts
Specifics: I have to go to the chains for an attempt to count (because I often don’t prioritize going to the chains on challenging routes, and I want to work on that specifically for my personal growth as a climber).
Optional goals during the process:
- Make as much progress on the route as I can in those 10 attempts
- Climb until I feel pumped and fall off trying on multiple parts of the route
- Gain confidence with all the clips so I don’t need to stick clip up anymore
An attempt on Magnetar – Photo by James Lucas
Example #2: Blue 12+ at the Gym
Buy in number: 3 attempts
Specifics: None – I can come down halfway if desired! It can be on top rope or lead.
Optional goals during the process:
- Improve my ego situation on the climb because it feels really hard for the grade for me and I don’t want to be seen struggling on it.
- Get more confident on the moves that currently feel insecure.
Simple, right?
I think so, but I’ve been blown away by how much negotiating my terms with certain routes has helped me!
It has made it so I’m not constantly wondering if a route is too hard, should I be on something else, what if I don’t send etc… Those are not thoughts that help you stay in the moment and learn the most from your efforts.
This concept is super relevant to me now because I know in order to level up, I need to get on a variety of climbs that don’t have a guaranteed send attached…
I want to be choosing climbs based on what I have to learn from them versus how long it will take me to send them.
If a send happens in those number of attempts, that’s great! But it’s just a bonus…
I would love for you to try this concept out and please let me know what you discover!
Were you able to get on climbs you might have felt too intimidated by?
Did this help you feel successful and accomplished even though you didn’t send something?
Work with Me as Your Coach
Now that I’ve sent my long-term project, I have some unexpected openings in my schedule to take on new climbing coaching clients. The options to work with me include the following:
Initial Coaching Call
A 2-hour Zoom call to talk in depth about what you need to do in your climbing, training, and mindset to reach your goals and become a better climber overall. I will provide 1-2 weeks of sample programming for you, and we can talk about next steps in your training.
3-Month Coaching Deep Dive
A 2-hour initial zoom call, then 60-minute follow-up calls every 2 weeks, access to 3 of my previous workshops or courses, full training program for the 3 months, and anytime Q&A with me on the TrueCoach app.
1-Hour Coaching Call
Chat with me about your situation, training equipment, and goals to learn what you need to do moving forward to reach those goals.
If you’re ready to take your climbing to the next level with an experienced, seasoned coach, click the link below.
photo by James Lucas
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