Blog Posts by Coach Matt and Coach Alex
Training with an Injury
In the last two years, I've broken my leg and had to take 3-months off climbing due to a finger injury. Currently, I feel like the thing I'm best at is getting back into good climbing form after injuries. However, [...]
Comparing Hangboard Protocols
Hangboards are the best way to train finger strength. When used properly, they are extremely safe and let us fine tune the intensity of our workouts. However, for climbers new to training on a fingerboard, the details of different hangboard protocols [...]
How to Train Power without a Campus Board
One of the most common questions we get here at TrainingBeta is what people should substitute into their training when they don't have access to a campus board. Before we talk about what other types of training can take the place [...]
Online Personal Climbing Training with Matt Pincus
We are excited to announce that we are now offering online personal climbing coaching with Matt Pincus! Matt has been a part of TrainingBeta for the past three years as our Content Manager and Social Media Manager, and he's excited to [...]
Send SLIM Knee Pad Review
Send Climbing knee pads?!?!?!??!?!? I know what you're thinking: It's summer and not even the greatest knee pad ever designed could get me up my projects in the inferno that is currently Hueco Tanks. The Send SLIM pad [...]
From Bouldering to Route Climbing Part 2: Training Details
Matt Pincus here today with the next installment in my series of how I transitioned from exclusively bouldering to route climbing as well. This one is all about the changes I made to my training to address the physical limitations that [...]