Blog Posts by Coach Matt and Coach Alex
Quality, Not Quantity?
I love climbing, I love training, and I love trying hard. If you are anything like me, you probably feel the same way and want to do as much climbing as possible. Unfortunately, actually improving at climbing is not just [...]
An Alternative to Sending
Alex here, and today I am going to share a new concept I've been using that has been super helpful for me while getting on new climbs outside, choosing projects, and just deciding what to spend time on in the [...]
Developing Climbing Skills Beyond Drills
Hi Everyone, Coach Matt Pincus here. As a coach, I work with climbers who want clear guidance about exactly what to do in all of their indoor and outdoor sessions in order to reach their goals and get BETTER at [...]
Reexamining Major Jumps in Climbing Performance: Success Leaves Tracks
My winter hasn’t exactly gone according to plan. I went down to Hueco in early January to escape the depths of Wyoming winter and get a strength and power dose on some of my favorite boulders on the planet. Initially, [...]
What to Invest in for Climbing Training: Matt Pincus
Recently, I wrote to the TrainingBeta email subscribers about how I was changing up my training for the winter and how switching back to bouldering for a bit during the late fall had reinvigorated my psyche after a disappointing fall [...]
What Matt is Changing in His Climbing & Training after a Disappointing Season
Every month or so we do a life and climbing update on Matt, Alex or me, and this month is Matt's turn! Read on to see what he's been up to and what he's learned about his climbing. Enter Coach [...]
How Alex Stiger Sent Her First 5.14a
I overheard a woman in Rifle a couple weeks ago say, “if it takes longer than 3 years it doesn’t count anyway.” I immediately thought that was a weird thing to say and now that I have SENT my 4+ [...]
How to Train the Skill of Sending by Matt Pincus
This morning I woke up and there was a slight chill in the air. At least here in Wyoming, the fall season is right around the corner. As I wrap up my summer training block, I couldn’t be more psyched [...]
How to Approach Routes Systematically: Ground-Up or Top-Down?
As a coach, I have taught clinics, recorded podcasts, written articles, and had countless conversations about helping climbers improve their tactics with the aim of making their process for working, and eventually sending, routes and boulders more efficient. While I [...]
How to Use Circuits in Climbing Training
Announcement! Quick little thing. Coach Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn are hosting an integrated climbing training and nutrition program starting on August 8th, 2022 for 4 weeks! If you want to up your game in nutrition and in climbing training [...]