How long do you work on your project? A couple of attempts? Days? Weeks? Seasons? Climbing trainer Eric Hörst posted an article on his site trainingforclimbing.com that addresses the question of how much time you should spend projecting and whether or not obsessing day in day out over a single route is actually beneficial for your climbing progression in the long run.
In answer to this question, Hörst suggest that it is better for overall progression to not get stuck projecting one route. As a guideline, he proposes the “10-4 Rule” or in other words suggests that we should not invest more than ten redpoint attempts over four days into a route. Ultimately, Hörst rational stems from the idea that we will acquire a wider range of technical skills by exposing ourselves to a greater the variety of terrain.
“Climbing is a skill sport first and foremost. Therefore, climbing a high volume of terrain is the fastest way to learn new skills, improve economy of movement, and dial in your mental game. Conversely, climbing the same 50 or 100 feet of rock, over and over, climbing day after climbing day, will actually stunt your technical growth.” – Eric Hörst
Hörst does acknowledge that the “10-4 Rule” is just a guideline applicable to weekend warriors and those with limited time to get out and climb and that there are circumstances in which this rule is meant to be broken. However, he stands by the idea that avoiding long term projecting in favor of higher variety of climbing is the best way to maintain a positive and confident mental attitude while ensuring continued growth as a climber.
Eric had addressed this topic in his Training Beta Podcast but addresses it in more detail in this article. Take a look and maybe reevaluate how much time you are spending on your projects.
Click Here: The “10-4 Rule” – A Guide Line for Projecting
(photo courtesy of trainingforclimbing.com)
Other Articles You Might Like:
- TBP 019 :: Eric Hörst on Training Methods for Adults and Kids
- Slowing the Pump Clock with Eric Hörst
- The Process of Projecting by Jamie Emerson
- Ethan Pringle’s 10 Tips for Sending Your Project
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