About Lucie Hanes 

Lucie Hanes is a 27-year-old climbing coach out of Eagle, Colorado, who is pursuing her Master’s of Science in Applied Sports Psychology.

I met Lucie in the Wicked Cave in Rifle last summer, and the next time I heard from her was when she reached out via email in response to the episode I did with Matt Pincus about running and climbing.

In that episode, Matt and I basically conclude that running isn’t going to help your climbing, and that it may in fact hinder it. And that there are other more effective ways to train endurance for climbing.

Lucie emailed me to say that she was not only a high performing climber (having sent numerous 5.13’s), but also a high performing ultrarunner. She wanted to tell the story of how it’s possible to do both sports well as a counter to my episode with Matt.

Lucie is incredibly passionate about both of her sports, and in this interview she outlines her training – how she lays out her weeks and months in order to prepare for different seasons of her sports and her weekly training schedule right now. 

While all of that was super interesting, my conversation with her ended up being even more enlightening than I thought it would be because it turns out she’s also in recovery from an eating disorder. And she’s very open about it, so some of our conversation ended up being about body image, disordered eating behaviors, her health consequences of underfueling, and how she’s recovering from all of it.

I want to thank Lucie for her willingness to talk about difficult things; her vulnerability is invaluable to us all. I very much enjoyed this talk with her, and I felt super connected to her during it. I wish she lived closer to me so we could hang out, honestly.

If you’d like to work with Lucie, you can find her at www.insideoutathlete.com, where she consults with athletes on mental strength coaching in sport & performance.

Lucie Hanes Interview Details

• Why running is her form of moving meditation
• Her running and climbing achievements
• Her studies and aspirations as a sport psychologist
• Why she feels the need to be doing something physical all the time
• How the low points of her eating disorder and RED-S felt
• Tools she uses to deal with body image as her body changes
• How she trained for both sports during her eating disorder vs how she trains for them now
• What she thinks about running for climbers in general and how she thinks it affects her own climbing

Show Links

• Instagram @luciehanes
• Lucie’s coaching website: InsideOutAthlete.com
• Train with Coach Alex Stiger in her Team Program  starting next Tuesday, January 18th

Photo Credit

Photo of Lucie climbing by Charlie Postlewaite

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