The TrainingBeta Podcast
The Best Resource for Climbing Training Beta
On the TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn talks to climbers, coaches, physical therapists, and other professionals about how to get better at rock climbing. As a nutritionist and a mindset coach, she offers her own expertise to the mix as well. You can expect to find actionable advice and meaningful conversations on this podcast that will help you train smarter, fuel yourself better, and find more fulfilment in your rock climbing.
You can find even more on all of these topics on our Patreon in the form of bonus episodes, recorded mindset and nutrition coaching sessions, uncut interviews, and nutrition and mindset advice.
TBP 257 :: Finger Endurance Training Advancements with Dr. Tyler Nelson
Tyler Nelson talks about some advancements in training finger endurance that he's discovered with his patients and in the research. He describes in detail how we can be more efficient with our finger training to get the most out of our sessions.
TBP 256 :: Shaina Savoy and Neely Quinn Answer Nutrition Questions from Climbers
Shaina Savoy and Neely Quinn answer nutrition questions from climbers about how to eat to climb well, when to try to lose weight, how to eat as an aging climber, and more.
TBP 255 :: Emily Harrington, Paige Claassen, and Angela Payne on Motherhood & Climbing
Emily Harrington, Paige Claassen, and Angie Payne talk about their experiences with pregnancy and motherhood as elite climbers, how it's changed their climbing, and the most challenging parts of it all.
TBP 254 :: Kelly Birch on Training, Weights, Nutrition, and Mindset to Climb V14
Kelly Birch talks about her climbing training to send V14, why weight lifting is so important to her, how she fuels herself nutritionally, and how she uses a mastery mindset in climbing.
TBP 253 :: How to Feel More Fulfilled in Climbing with Tyler Stableford
Therapist Tyler Stableford describes some therapy methods and concepts that can help climbers enjoy the sport more and find deeper fulfillment in their lives and in climbing.
TBP 252 :: Is Your Pain Simply a Product of Your Thoughts & Emotions?
Therapist Sarah Brock Chavez explains how pain can be caused by your negative thoughts & emotions, and what you can do to get out of pain.
TBP 251 :: Climbing Drills for Beginner to Elite Climbers with Matt Pincus
Coach Matt Pincus offers advice on how to incorporate climbing drills into your sessions, why you'd do that, and which drills to do, whether you're a novice, intermediate, or elite climber.
TBP 250 :: Sugar Cravings – Why They Exist and How to Tame Them
In this episode I explain why we have sugar cravings and the surprising way to sustainably decrease them while also nourishing our bodies with what they need.
TBP 249 :: Breaking into 5.11 Climbing with Coach Alex Stiger
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about what it takes to break into 5.11 climbing consistently and exactly what you can do to get there.
TBP 248: Climbing Trip Types and Their Pros and Cons (Projecting vs. Just Having Fun)
In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss the differences between a few different types of climbing trips and the pros and cons of each.
TBP 247 :: How to Train and Prepare for a Trip to Hueco
Coach Matt Pincus offers advice on how to prepare and train for a bouldering trip to Hueco Tanks
TBP 246 :: Nutrition Session with Climber to Improve Recovery and Performance (It Worked!)
Neely does an in-depth nutrition session (and follow-up session) with a climber who struggles with poor recovery from climbing and training and wants to feel stronger while projecting.
TBP 245 :: 5 Principles of Climbing Trip Prep with Matt Pincus
Coach Matt Pincus offers 5 things to take into consideration when preparing for a climbing trip weeks or months in advance.
TBP 244 :: Training Guidelines while Projecting Outside
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about what and when to train in the gym when you're trying to send hard projects outside.
TBP 243 :: How Alex Stiger Sent Her First 5.14a (8b+) after 5 Years
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about what it took for her to send her long-term 5.14a (8b+) project after 5 years of working on it