Medial Epicondylosis
Rock Rehab Protocol
The Medial Epicondylosis “Rock Rehab Protocol” is a step-by-step rehabilitation and injury prevention plan designed specifically for rock climbers who have pain along the inside of their forearm up to their elbow. The goal of the four-phase process is to take you from the pain, inflammation and tissue overload stage to gain full mobility, strength and eventually pain-free climbing movement.
- How to get out of pain
- How to unload tissue with tape
- How to strengthen the area
- How to avoid injury again
Signs and Symptoms
- Painful localized point along the inside of the forearm
- Discomfort with actively flexing the wrist forward
- Discomfort with passively extending the wrist backwards
Cause
When you climb, you are constantly overworking the finger and wrist flexors in the front of your forearm by gripping. The repetitive action of constantly flexing your fingers and wrist can lead to degeneration of the shared tendon as it inserts into the bone. You should be aware of dangerous movements that can increase the stress on the finger and wrist flexors tendon and eventually lead to pain and injury. These movements include over-gripping, gripping with a flexed hand and sagging your hips too far away from the wall.
Step 1: Determine Your Injury
Disclaimer: The information on this page is not intended to diagnose or treat any medical condition. Always consult your physician or physical therapist before performing any assessment or beginning a rehabilitation protocol.
Use the video below as a resource to determine whether or not you have medial epicondylosis.
Step 2: Determine Your Rehab Category
Use the table below to determine your rehabilitation category based on the results from your orthopedic tests. You will fit into a rehabilitation category (mild, moderate or severe) based on the number of tests that are positive.
Step 3: Start The Protocol
Once you have determined your rehabilitation category, you can begin the rock rehab protocol. The protocols contain a detailed timeline and step-by-step instructions. They utilize a four-phase system to unload the injured tissue, gain full mobility, improve strength and eventually return to pain-free climbing movement. The protocols can either be viewed within the program or downloaded as a PDF.
Get The Medial Epicondylosis Protocol $24
Sample Videos
These are videos from the actual Rock Rehab Protocol where professional climbers teach you efficient climbing movement and proper exercise performance.
Mobility Level 2
The above exercise glides the tendons in the elbow and wrist by alternating between shortening and lengthening the tendon at each joint.
Movement Advice
The above video teaches you how to move on the wall while minimizing stress on the inside of the elbow.
- Decrease medial epicondylosis with therapeutic taping techniques.
- Improve mobility of the wrist and elbow with tendon glides.
- Regain pain-free wrist and elbow range of motion.
- Eccentrically strengthen the muscles that stabilize the elbow.
- Identify errors in climbing technique that stress the inside elbow.
- Emphasize climbing movement patterns that help you avoid further injury.
Recommended Rehab Tools
The Rock Rehab Protocols were built specifically for rock climbers. It is for this reason that any tool that is used in the protocol can either be bought as a rehabilitation tool or created from retired climbing equipment or household items. If you use retired climbing equipment or household items, it will be referenced in the videos as a “dirtbag substitution.” Below you will see a list of rehabilitation tools recommended for the Medial Epicondylosis Protocol.
If you would like to purchase any of the rehab tools, you can find them in the links below:
About the Climbing Doctor
- Doctor of physical therapy
- University of Southern California professor
- Residency trained in orthopedics
- Fellowship trained in movement science
- 9 years of concentrated academic study
- Over a decade of clinical experience treating climbers
- Board certified orthopedic clinical specialist
- Certified strength and conditioning specialist
- Numerous articles on preventing injuries
- Lectures internationally on injury prevention
- Author of best selling book Climb Injury-Free
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